This guide walks through the basic process of assembling a coro pixel prop similar to the RGB pixel props commonly used in animated Christmas and holiday light displays.

Pixel props are usually made from corrugated plastic, often called “coro,” with pre-cut holes for pixels. Each pixel is pushed into the prop in a specific order so the controller and sequencing software can light the prop correctly.  The software, typically xLights, will then have a corresponding model that aligns the virtual prop with the real world prop.

What You Need

Required parts

• Coro pixel prop
• Usually seed or bullet node pixels, depending on your design
  
• Seed pixels and bullet node pixels are not interchangeable and your prop will have been produced to work with one or the other format
• Pixel controller with available outputs - often called "SPI outputs"
• Pixel extension cable, if needed
  
• The length of all extension cables from controller output to the 1st pixel should be no more than 25ft feet. 
• Power supply matched to the pixel voltage
• Optional: Zip ties, wire clips, or mounting hardware
• Sequencing software such as xLights or Light-O-Rama
• Prop model file from our website at https://www.holidaycoro.com/models 
  

Helpful tools

• Marker for marking path if you did not purchase a prop with pre-printed path on the back side
  
• If installing bullet nodes
  
• Pixel Installation Pliers:  https://www.holidaycoro.com/Pixel-Node-Pliers-p/871.htm
• Gloves - If installing by hand
  
• Label maker or wire labels

Step 1: Confirm the Pixels and Paths before you start

Before installing anything, confirm the following:

1. Do the pixels actually work? - We recommend building your pixel strings to the actual number of pixels required and testing them using either the application or the controller's built-in test mode BEFORE you install the pixels.  There is nothing more frustrating than finding a problem with your pixels after the pixels have been installed into the prop.
2. Pixel Path - If you don't have a pre-printed path for the pixels, we recommend drawing the path on the prop's back side FIRST.  You can determine the path using the prop's model file, see:
3. Spacing of Holes
   
1. 12mm "Bullet" Style Pixel Nodes
   
1. There is no industry "standard" method of spacing or lengths - be sure to check with your vendor on their method of measurements
2. All HolidayCoro bullet nodes are sold as center to center spacing WHEN INSTALLED.  This means that if your prop is listed as requiring 2.25 inch spacing, our pixels that list spacing as "3.5 inches" will easily install into the prop.
   
3. Note that some vendors indicate spacing as the amount of wire between pixels, so a 3.0 inch string might only be 2.25 inches center to center when installed.
2. Seed / Pebble Style Pixels
   
1. Generally these are indicated either as center to center or edge to edge.  Given that seed pixels are so small, this difference should be negligible.
   
2. If using our HolidayCoro Secure Seed Lock Pixel props, add 1.5 inches to the seed pixels you purchase for the center to center spacing listed for the prop for installation.  For example - if our website lists a maximum of 3.0 center to center spacing within the prop, you need to have seed pixels that are 4.5 inches center to center for installation.
3. All HolidayCoro props have the maximum center to center spacing listed on the website.  This number might be 3.8 inches, if so your pixels must support this distance OR HIGHER if you do not wish to make any splices of your pixels.
   
4. If you need to extend props by removing a pixel to create an extension, use items like this:  
   
1. https://www.holidaycoro.com/Solder-Shrink-Tubing-p/177.htm
   
2. https://www.holidaycoro.com/Push-to-Splice-Wire-Connectors-p/179.htm
   
3. See the videos on each respective page for use of these products
   
5. It is VERY common to have to cut and splice pixels for complex props if your pixel spacing is under the maximum spacing required
   
6. It is VERY common to have props that may not have exact counts of pixels that match your strings - e.g. prop requires 224 pixels but you have strings of 100 pixels
   

Step 2: Find the Pixel Start Point

Most coro props have a specific pixel start location. This may be marked on the prop, shown in the product image, included in the wiring diagram, or defined in the xLights model.

Look for markings such as:

• Start
• #1
• Data In
• Arrows
• A wiring path diagram
  
• 
  
  

The first pixel must usually go into the first hole shown in the wiring diagram. If the pixels are inserted in the wrong order, the prop may still light up, but effects will not display correctly.

Step 3: Understand Pixel Direction

Bullet pixels have a data direction. Data usually flows from the controller into the first pixel, then from pixel to pixel through the string.

Look for arrows on the wire or pixel body if present. If there are no arrows, identify the input and output ends before pushing pixels into the prop.

A common rule is:

• Controller connects to pixel #1.
• Pixel #1 feeds pixel #2.
• Pixel #2 feeds pixel #3.
• Continue through the full prop.

Do not cut the string or install pixels until you are sure of the data direction.

Step 4: Lay Out the Pixel String

Place the prop face-down on a clean work surface. Lay the pixel string behind the prop and route it roughly along the intended path before inserting pixels.

Check for:

• Enough slack between holes  - remember, if installing seed pixels, you will need 1.5 additional inches of spacing when used with HolidayCoro Secure Seed Lock props
• Correct direction from the first pixel to the last pixel
• Correct spacing between pixels

This step prevents having to remove pixels later.

Step 5: Install Pixels Into the Prop

12mm Bullet Pixel Nodes

1. Again, if your prop does not have a pre-printed path that indicates the "back" of the prop, make sure you install the pixels from the back side.
   
2. HINT:  It is easier to install pixel nodes if they are warm.  Either leave them out in the sun to heat up or warm them using external heat.  This will make the wire more pliable and easier to install.
3. Using either your hand or optional pixel pliers, push each bullet pixel into the coro from the back side of the prop until you see the white lens just poking out on the front.  
   
4. The pixel should seat firmly in the hole without being loose.  Yes, they might be a bit tight depending on your pixel vendor's tolerances.
   
5. If the hole is tight, gently rock the pixel while pushing.

1. Fold over the seed pixel and push it through the hole in the back, then on the front, turn the seed pixel 90 degrees to lodge it into the slot in the face of the coro.
   

Step 6: Manage Extra Wire

After the pixels are installed, tidy the wiring on the back of the prop.

Use zip ties to keep wires from hanging loose. Leave enough slack so the wires are not under tension, especially near corners or tight turns.

Avoid placing strain on:

• Pixel wires
• Connector ends
• Solder joints
• Pigtails
• Extension cables

Step 7: Connect the Prop to the Controller

Connect the prop’s data input to the correct controller output.

Typical pixel wiring uses three conductors:

• Positive voltage: V+ / +12V / +5V
• Data: Data / DIN
• Ground: V- / GND

Make sure the controller output voltage matches the pixel voltage.

A 12V prop must be powered from 12V. A 5V prop must be powered from 5V.

Connecting 5v pixels to 12v power can permanently damage the pixels.

Step 8: Test the Prop Before Mounting

Before installing the prop outdoors, test it on a bench or work table to make sure the pattern is correct.  

Use a pixel tester or your controller to run basic test patterns:

• Red
• Green
• Blue
• White
• Chase pattern
• Full on

Testing helps confirm:

• The first pixel is correct
• The data direction is correct
• All pixels work
• Colors are mapped correctly
• No pixels are skipped
• No loose connector exists

If red, green, and blue appear in the wrong order, the controller or software color order may need to be changed.

Step 9: Add the Prop in Sequencing Software

In your sequencing software, add the correct model for the prop.

If a model file is available, import it instead of creating the model manually.

For xLights, this may be an .xmodel file.

For Light-O-Rama, this may be an LOR prop or Preview-related file.

Confirm:

• Pixel count
• Start location
• Wiring direction
• Controller port
• Universe/channel mapping, if used
• Color order
• Brightness settings

The physical wiring of the prop and the software model must match.

Step 10: Mount the Prop

Mount the finished prop where it will be used.

Common mounting methods include:

• Stakes
• PVC frames
• EMT conduit frames
• Zip ties
• Screws with washers
• Hanging wire
• Clips or coro mounting hardware

Mount the prop securely enough to handle wind, rain, and seasonal weather.

Step 11: Final Display Test

After the prop is mounted and connected, run a full test from the actual show controller.

Check the prop from the viewing direction, not just from behind.

Confirm:

• Effects display correctly
• The prop is not reversed
• The prop is not upside down in software
• Colors are correct
• Brightness is appropriate
• No pixels flicker
• No pixels stay dark
• No wiring is under tension

Common Problems and Fixes

The prop does not light at all

Check:

• Controller output is configured for that specific prop
• Data input is connected to pixel #1
• Ground is connected

Only the first few pixels light

Possible causes:

• Bad pixel
• Loose connection
• Data direction is wrong
• Pixel count is incorrect
• Controller output is configured incorrectly

The prop lights, but effects look wrong

Possible causes:

• Pixels installed in the wrong order
• Wrong model file
• Incorrect start location
• Prop is flipped or reversed in software
• Incorrect channel mapping

Colors are wrong

Possible causes:

• Incorrect RGB color order
• Controller color order setting needs adjustment
• Pixel type is different than expected

Pixels flicker

Possible causes:

• Poor ground connection
• Long data run - keep runs from controller to prop or between props under 25ft
• Incorrect controller settings
• Voltage drop - decrease the output % on that prop or split prop into multiple outputs with less pixels per output